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In isolated Burma, hope and fear for the future

Agence France Presse - November 29, 2011

Rangoon – After decades of military dictatorship and economic malaise, glimmers of hope are finally emerging among Burma's long-suffering people of a brighter future for the impoverished nation.

In the most visible sign yet of the pariah state's efforts to return to the international diplomatic fold, Burma's new nominally civilian rulers will this week welcome US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton for a historic visit.

The highest level US trip in more than 50 years to the nation comes against a backdrop of cautious optimism on its pot – holed streets that better times lie ahead under the military – backed government.

But hopes of a democratic dawn have been dashed many times before and deep suspicions linger about the regime's intentions.

"We heard about Hillary Clinton's visit through the media. I cannot guess what will happen but I'm hoping good things will come," said a 30 – year – old housewife in the main city Yangon who gave her name as Muu Muu. "I dare not believe that military rule is completely finished... We still have our fears," she added.

Others were more optimistic that the country's darkest days are behind it. "Because of the political changes here, I don't think we will return to military rule," said a taxi driver in the remote capital Naypyidaw, where Clinton will receive a red – carpet welcome from the new regime on Wednesday.

"Our government must change to come in line with the international community. We want them to walk a path to true democracy," he added, but asked not to be named in a reminder of the lingering climate of fear.

Clinton's three – day visit will take her to the purpose – built new capital Naypyidaw – the showpiece of a "roadmap to democracy" promised by the generals – for talks with the president, as well as to the dilapidated former colonial capital Yangon for a meeting with democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi.

US President Barack Obama has said Clinton's visit aims to boost what he called "flickers" of progress in the country, the target of Western sanctions over its human rights record, including the detention of dissidents.

After almost half a century of military rule, Burma's junta in March handed power to a new government whose ranks are filled with former generals, including President Thein Sein.

A series of reformist moves, including dialogue with a newly freed Suu Kyi and other political opponents, has sparked tentative hopes that the regime is seeking to change its ways.

The new administration has passed a law giving workers the right to strike, turned to the International Monetary Fund for advice on economic reform, released around 200 political prisoners and suspended a controversial mega – dam project backed by traditional ally and regional powerhouse China.

Suu Kyi's National League for Democracy – which won 1990 elections but was not allowed to take power – is also re-entering mainstream politics, which could pave the way for the Nobel Peace Prize winner to stand for parliament.

Her party refused to participate in last year's elections – in which the military's allies claimed an overwhelming victory – because of rules that would have forced it to expel imprisoned members.

Suu Kyi, who has spent most of the last two decades in detention, was released a few days after the November vote, and officials in her party have said she is likely to run in upcoming by – elections.

The NLD's boycott of last year's poll led to a split in the opposition, with a splinter group breaking away to form a new party, the National Democratic Force (NDF), which has a handful of seats in the new parliament.

NDF leader Khin Maung Swe hailed the planned comeback of Suu Kyi's party as a "major turnaround". "It's a big and auspicious political step for Myanmar," he told AFP.

But amidst the flickers of optimism, doubts remain about whether the regime's reform gestures are any more than a ploy to win international favour. "I don't know if the changes are real or not. I only know about Suu Kyi's release," said Kyaw Soe, a 37 – year – old boatman from a suburb of Yangon.

"Even under military rule, our family came out and welcomed her freedom, so we had many problems in our village. But we don't care. We're not afraid as we're standing on the right side."

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